Reggie Thomson’s Diary

I put all my clothes into the wash in the morning. It meant we were slightly late leaving.

I didn’t quite realise at the time where I was going. We drove to a nearby city hall, and went down to a basement room. Some ladies were waiting. I was asked if I could give them an English lesson. Oops! I was quite unprepared! Still, they didn’t mind just talking - mostly asking me questions about what I have been doing in Japan.

Afterwards, I was treated to a meal at a nearby restaurant. I wasn’t particularly hungry, so just ordered a side dish. We then came back to Etsuko’s house. She had made some delicious cakes. One of the ladies purchased a CD, and they gave me some money for taking the class.

Another friend called round later in the afternoon - more cakes! Mmm! He owned a camper car, so we were given a tour. I think it could sleep six! He also purchased a CD. Now I have some spare cash. I’ve left my bank book with Noji-san, in case I wish to allow Japanese people to order and pay directly to my Japanese bank.

There was lots to eat in the evening, too. So much, that they phoned some friends to help finish it off. They discovered, or rather, I happened to mention that I like chocolate. We ate some white chocolate after the meal, and I was given two large bars of Meiji chocolate to take back to England.

Etsuko is very keen to improve her English. For the most part, in conversation, she can communicate well. She is probably of an upper-intermediate level, and the jump to advanced is quite a struggle. Perhaps part of the reason is that there are always more students at a beginner level, and hence most classes are for beginners to intermediates. We looked on the web for some of the individual learning programs that you can sign up to over the internet, but I didn’t find anything suitable. I downloaded NetMeeting, but in the absence of a microphone, we didn’t really achieve much.

We also talked about some inter-cultural communications difficulties that resulted in surprise reactions. Perhaps western ladies are overly conscious about their figures, and apt to interpret innocent comments as criticism.

I stayed up to four a.m. in my room, continuing with some typing. It is the equivalent of 8 p.m. in England. Tomorrow I shall have to stay up until at least 10 p.m.

I took all the envelopes to the Post Office.

Andrew has sent me another email asking for the information for the tax man. I re-read the faxed notes that he sent me previously, and discover that I only have to calculate the total rental income for the year. That’s much easier. So I spent a few hours working out the total from my MySQL database.

I managed to get in touch with Etsuko today, and she suggested that I go there tonight. Noji went out in the evening, and when he came back, he suggested that we meet at a nearby noodle shop. Noji made a comment on the photos on the front of the CD cover, saying that they were strong, whereas Japanese prefer softer images. Perhaps I have completely missed the mark with my photography. I always look for strong images.

I packed all my belongings into the suitcase, rucksack and small rucksack. In all, it weighs 27 kilograms, but I will carry the computer and camera with me in the small rucksack, so it might be OK. I’ve thrown away my trousers and some clothes that were looking tatty, and also the Nike sandals. They didn’t last as long as the Merrill ones, but they did have to suffer the acidic bath of climbing up to the Kamuiwakka hot spring in Hokkaido.

I walked from Noji’s house. I didn’t realise that the small road was in fact an old Edo era route. It doesn’t compare with Magomejuku, but there are several older style buildings. It only took twenty minutes or so to get to Etsuko’s house. I rang the wrong doorbell at first.

There was a horror movie on the TV which the family was watching. It seemed like the antithesis of the “In Search of Beauty” aim. We ate slices of Japanese pear as we watched it.

I had a good hot bath before retiring to the upstairs room to do some more computing.

I spent the day making the CDs to send to people in Japan. There are two or three that didn’t write any contact address or email in my guestbook. I phoned the lady in Saga who had given me a lift from Karatsu.

Noji gave me directions to the post office, and I took the bike, but had some difficulties finding it. The CDs cost 140 yen to send, so I bought some more stamps. I am now down to about 4000 yen - just enough to pay for the 2700 yen airport tax and the 650 yen train fare. Noji tells me, though, that they have taken away the machines, and just charge the amount on the flight ticket.

I brought the envelopes back to the house to put the stamps on them. I have a bit of a headache after all the efforts of the past few days.

I wasn’t able to get in touch with Etsuko, so I stayed at Noji’s for an extra evening.

I put all the photographs onto the web today with their labels. I’ve started making the final version of the Japan CD. It won’t have the diaries up-to-date - I’m still stuck somewhere in Hokkaido.

Noji went to Kansai to meet his father returning from America. I went out to buy some more disks. I’ve calculated that I stayed at about thirty people’s houses in my eight months in Japan. I met Noji in Daiei, so helped to carry back some more cans of beer.

Noji and I went early to SIBC. Chris and Michael have returned from their furlough in America. Michael ordered another copy of the Japan CD. Since he has bought one before, I gave him the 50% reduction.

Renée and Shibuya treated me to a meal in a nearby restaurant. I bought them a new Mapple map of the Kansai area as a thank you present. I had taken photocopies of mostly these maps in the convenience stores at just 10 yen for an A3 black and white copy. Usually, I just needed to know how to get to the nearest service area. I can’t afford the weight of a full map, so photocopying the relevant pages as needed was the best way. Renée was a bit surprised at the price - 2700 yen or so! Still, their map was falling to pieces.

I made my own way back to Noji’s house and got on with the computing - selecting, compressing, labelling and updating the database on my computer.

I really wanted to make some more CDs in time for church tomorrow, but I was far too sleepy. I had to sort out the photographs to put on the web. It takes much longer trying to write all the labels for each photograph in English and in Japanese. I managed to get all the ones up to Hokkaido onto the web.

My first lift was to Yashima Parking Area, on the Seto ohashi bridge. I didn’t take any photos. However, after hitching in the boiling sunshine for a while, I went inside to relax on the free massage chairs.

I eventually got a lift with someone going towards Hiroshima, so went all the way to the Fukushima services with them. However, even on the other side, though there were lots of cars, hitching was slow. I eventually accepted a lift with someone going to Okayama, and was dropped at the Michiguchi Parking Area. Fortunately, it was also busy. From there, I was given my final lift of the trip - with a couple going to Tatsuno. They agreed to drive me all the way to Kakogawa, and dropped me outside my former residence.

Sadly, everyone seemed to be away on holidays. I walked back to the station, and took the train to Osaka, telephoning Noji to let him know my approximate arrival time. I’m not sure I did very much that evening.

The first lift of the morning was with two gentlemen who were going only as far as the first island. However, they would pass the Ohama Parking Area, where I figured it would be easy to catch another lift. Actually, I decided to take some photos of the Seto inland sea islands and bridges. On the return journey, I noticed I was missing my fan - an essential item in this hot weather. I had to return for it. I then walked across the lower part of the bridge - it has a cycleway and walkway.

I bought some stamps at the parking area. There was a small kiosk selling special ones. I bought 10 at 80 yen and 50 yen. I haven’t counted, but think I may need to send about fifteen thank-you CDs to the people I have stayed with.

The next group of people who gave me a lift were in two cars, and I think were originally intending to stop at some of the islands on the way. I was worried it would be too late for me by the time I got to the Kushushimakaikyo Service Area. The decided to take me straight there. One lady was an English teacher. From there, I thought I might just have time to get to Dogo hot spring, so I set my sign for Matsuyama. A family was going that way. Indeed, they decided try the famous hot springs for themselves.

It was quite busy inside the baths. I took my time, and relaxed afterwards in the cool changing rooms. When I finally came out, it was almost 2.30. I bought lunch at the nearby supermarket, then set off for the final photography session - Awa odori festival in Tokushima.

I had to walk a long way out of Matsuyama. On the way, a lady came over to talk. She wanted to ask some questions, since she worked for a local radio station. She was surprised that I had just come from Yakushima, and that two weeks ago I had been in Hokkaido. She asked me if I liked Japan, and said “Thank you” when I replied “Yes.” I gave her one of the cards. Well, maybe I’ll become famous yet!

I think I had the wrong sign - for a small village just outside of Matsuyama. When I reached it, I changed the sign to Komatsu, and almost immediately had a lift with a couple. However, because the hitching had been slow, I decided to walk to the Ishizuchisan services. It was fairly busy, but no one seemed to be going to Tokushima. By late evening, I gave up, and decided to go back to Osaka. I got a lift to the Toyohama service area which is after the turn off for Tokushima. Perhaps I wasn’t making sufficient effort with the hitching. Perhaps it didn’t matter if I couldn’t get to Awa Odori festival. I like to think that I’ve got some reason to return, and I would still very much like to see the Awa Odori festival.

I was too tired to continue. I decided to sleep out, in the hope that it wouldn’t rain.

It was another pleasant morning, though I only took a few photos. After breakfast, I was driven to the ferry terminal around 8.30. I noticed a shop which ended with “den” - usually that means electricity. So, I did a bit of computing in the terminal, and when the shop opened, I walked back there. I was able to get some CDs as well as food. I did some typing and sifting through photos.

A high school girl sat down nearby and started working on an English class text about Chie Mukai, the astronaut who flew on a space shuttle mission. I chatted a little, but mostly in Japanese.

On the ferry, even though I was one of the first to board, I still had to ask someone to move so that I could access the only power point. Of course, I handed out my namecards. This time, I didn’t take any photos. I typed away on my computer, and then made some Canada CDs. One gentleman fell asleep, which quite tickled one of the ladies in his group, who placed a few things near his hand and took a photograph. However, he didn’t seem quite so amused when he woke up.

I didn’t hitch on the ferry, and took a few snaps of Sakurajima as I alighted. Then, I stood with a sign for Kumamoto. A police car stopped nearby. I think they were trying to get some car drivers to move on from where they were parked. I wondered if any cars would stop for me with the police so close.

A car did stop, though. Two guys were going to Kumamoto. However, they took the normal roads round by the coast. The road went close to the Miyahara services, so we found the side road that got us to the entrance.

I was given a lift to Kumamoto-kita in a modified VW Beetle, with a large bar round the outside. The driver said it might be a bit noisy. He drove me past his turning, and took me to the next service area. The services are very busy in this holiday season, even late at night. I said hello to the boss of the restaurants, who again exhorted me to watch the Seven Samurai movie.

Shortly afterwards, a family gave me a lift. They were going all the way to Kobe, so I had an overnight ride to Fukushima. I think I managed a little sleep.

Some folks got up early. I was on the seat by the table, so decided to get up anyway. It was about half-past three. They started cooking breakfast. I asked them if they were climbing the mountain, and if so, could I join them? They agreed, although they said they would be going very slowly.

A little later on, another gentleman got up and seemed to be setting off up the mountain. I ran after him, and asked if he didn’t mind if I went along. I wanted to get a sunrise photo. He agreed. I rushed back to pack the rest of my stuff, said good-bye to the others, and set off. He walked at a very fast pace, and seemed to know where the track was. My pen light was just sufficient for me, but I have to hold it close to the ground to see anything.

We took a short rest at a junction - he had made good progress. The path in places was covered with good stones, because it had been made several hundred years ago. We were in good time to see the sunrise from Tsuji pass. The gentleman was an amatuer photographer and took lots of snaps. A few other folks also came. I handed out some of my peanut and raisin mix.

I decided to head for the Jomon Cedar. I didn’t wish to risk losing the sunshine. Since it was light, I could travel on my own. I was surprised at how steep the climb had been in places. Further on, I came across some Yakushima deer, but it was too dark to take good photos, and I didn’t wish to waste my batteries.

I made it down to the truck tracks - a narrow guage track still in use. Join the queue! There were lots of people heading up, some in large groups. I tended to rush past them, only to stop later to take some photos and be overtaken again.

Wilson’s stump (13.8m circumference, about 3000 years old) was rather crowded, meaning long waits before I could get photos without people. I wonder what psychological need requires the Japanese to take photos of “me at…?” Maybe it’s the proof that they were actually there. Or maybe the view would look lonely without them. Perhaps all my photographs come across as lonely to the Japanese.

It was a bit more of a struggle to get to the Jomon cedar. Until recently, it was possible to go right up and touch this 7,200 year old tree, but this had the consequence of compressing the soil. Now there is a viewing platform. I met the family who had given me a lift yesterday.

As I was eating my sandwiches, a deer came out of the woods, giving for a few minutes, the chance of a photo or two. As I was about to set off, one of the groups started chatting, and offered me some rice balls. So, I waited for a while, and gave them all a namecard.

The tree is amazing - with a height of 25.3m and a circumference of 16.4m. I don’t think my photo shows this well. It’s age is given as 7,200 years based on its diameter, or 2170 years based on scientific methods. It was surprising to see that the signs admitted doubt in the age of the tree, or doubt in the method of guessing the age of the tree by its measurements, which would mean doubting the experts who use such methods.

I still had plenty of drink with me. The water in the streams is quite drinkable. Perhaps I could have saved myself some effort.

I decided against climbing to the top of the mountain - 1900m (Jomon ceder is at 1300m). I didn’t have enough food, and I wanted to get to a hot spring. I didn’t take so many photos on the way down. Fortunately, it was still dry, and not overly hot. There were some Venus fly-traps further down, but I didn’t manage a good photo.

When I got to the car park, there were four buses, and about four cars. I thought it might not be possible to hitch, so asked a bus driver if there was a car park further down. He seemed to suggest hitching was either impossible or forbidden. There was something in his attidute that I didn’t like. I decided to walk, even if it meant missing the sunset at the hot spring.

About three or four cars later, I was with some tea chers from Okayama, and taken down to the circumferential road. There, I bought some energy in the form of chocolate, and started hitching to the Kaichu hot spring. A couple in a van stopped, and let me sit outside. I think they had been snorkelling. I’m told that the waters round here are clear and have lots of interesting fish.

I reached the hot spring just as the sun was setting. The hot spring was full of people, including ladies, so I didn’t take any snaps. One lady just coming out was from France, I think, and chatted for a bit. I went in in my underpants. First, I washed and shampooed. The water was just at the right temperature. The waves were just beginning to crash into the lower pool. I sat there for a while. Then, I decided it would be fun to sit on the edge, catching the waves. The first big one knocked me right over, into the pool and nearly into one young lady wrapped in a large towel. Still, it broke the ice!

I chatted with some of the folks in the pool, as it gradually became cooler with the incoming waves. One group of guys offered to let me stay in their tent for the night. So, after changing, we all squeezed into a car and went back to the port, stopping at a supermarket on the way. I picked up some provisions for tomorrow. We joined another group at the free campsite, and had a delicious stew with lots of beer.

Later, when I grew tired, I went to the tent to sleep, but it was too hot. I decided to sleep outside, taking the risk that it wouldn’t rain.