Reggie Thomson’s Diary

The gent had some work to do on Amakusa island. I haven’t been here before, so it seemed like a good idea. However, there is no motorway to the island, only quite busy normal roads. We stopped by the five famous bridges of Amakusa, where I took some quick snaps, and at another tourist site along the way. When a group asked the gentleman to take a photograph of them, he called me over, saying I was a professional cameraman. Well, I’m hardly that, but I obliged.

Amakusa, I learned, had also been a Christian area in Japan. It is hilly, and there are few places to grow rice, so the people were very poor. (In former years, the Lords of the Castles demanded taxes in the form of rice.) Poor people do not have hope, so turn to Christianity, I was told. Because of the high taxes, the people rebelled, but were crushingly defeated. I wondered whether this assessment of why people become Christians is true. “It is hard for a rich person to enter the Kingdom of God.” The rich of this world have all the comforts of life, which so often prevent them from becoming Christians.

I was a little worried that I was delaying my driver from getting to his work on time. Time is so crucial in Japan. and missing deadlines causes big trouble. When we arrived in Hondo, I was told I could take photos around the town until about four o’clock. Well, Japanese towns are, unfortunately, rarely interesting and I felt it would be difficult to find something to do there for three hours. I chose, instead, to continue hitching.

I walked in the direction of Tomioka. A couple gave me a lift by the short-cut, rather than round the coast road. They were going surfing, though the waves seemed rather small. As I walked into town, another gentleman gave me a lift right to the castle. He told me of a few places where I might be able to get good photos. He was also interested in the CD. My lucky day! I climbed up to the ruins of the castle and took some snaps. This castle has not yet been rebuilt, though some work is being done on the walls. Most of the Japanese castles are recent replicas, and only a few wooden ones remain. Part of the problem is that they believed that the fish at the top, being water-lovers, ward off lightning, when in fact, they attract it. Furthermore, many were ruined in the second world war. This area clearly is poor, since most other castles were rebuilt in the sixties.

There was a temple at the base. The priest started chatting. He had spent a week in Scotland ten years ago. However, when I asked about the lighthouse at the end of the island, he didn’t know. It seems that Japanese people often don’t explore their own localities.

I started walking and hitching, and was given a lift by someone who lived near where he picked me up. The lighthouse was quite small, unmanned, but I figured there might be a good sunset, so hung around. The sunset was fine and the full moon also very beautiful. Afterwards, I found somewhere to recharge and do a little work. It was quite deserted, so I chose to stay there for the night.

It wasn’t a very good place. First, the wind picked up considerably, and my bivvy bag flapped so furiously that I couldn’t sleep. I moved nearer to the buildings, out of the wind. This was fine until it began raining lightly. There were some covered seats nearby, so I lay between them, snatching a few more winks. When I next woke, it was raining heavily, and the chicken-shaped cover seemed to be full of holes - letting the water dribble down in places. My foam mat was getting wet, as well as the bivvy bag. It was time to rise, and try to dry out my belongings. I repacked my belongings, and relocated to the seat near the toilets.

It was warmer inside, so I sat on the comfortable seats watching the news for a while. I noticed the fumes of the smokers, and thought up a haiku about it. Now I would like to take a photo of exceptional beauty, marred only by a barely noticeable whisp of smoke from some chimney. The haiku is beginning to drive the photography, rather than vice versa.

Two other hitchhikers arrived. One was Japanese, and the other Chinese, but he spoke good Japanese. They were heading for Fukuoka, but after chatting for a bit, fell asleep on the comfy chairs. I kept my sign out, but eventually decided to brace the cold of the smoking seats by the toilets. When the other hitchhikers woke up, i watched their technique. The Chinese guy would go up to people and ask if they were going to Fukuoka. Eventually, two girls gave them a lift. Well, I’m never so lucky. Neither am I so direct. I hold up my sign, and don’t interrogate people directly, just asking if anyone is heading my direction.

The rain meant that I wouldn’t be able to take any photographs, so I wasn’t bothered that I couldn’t get a lift. I returned to the warmth of the comfortable seats, and just left my sign out, typing away on the computer. Eventually, a gentleman approached. He could take me to Kiyama services. I was on my way again.

Today, I don’t have a destination. It doesn’t matter where I go, because the weather is so bad. The gentleman spoke English very well. He had a friend who liked haiku and had a large house. However, that friend was quite busy, so it wouldn’t be possible to stay there. He offered to put me up for the night, in return for which he would get a copy of my Canadian Haiku CD.

First, though, he had some business in Kurume, where he lived. I waited in a Mosburger restaurant, ordering only a hot chocolate to pay for my use of a table and the facilities. The symbol for burgers has been set by MacDonald’s - the large M. Hence the name Mosburger and a differently shaped but identical letter as the signpost. I tapped away on the keyboard for a while, catching up on the backlog of work. Well, I never quite catch up. There’s always more to do.

His parents, though elderly, still run a small hairdressing shop. I met them, and was treated to some warm miso soup. I took a welcome shower, then continued to work on the computer while the gent prepared a report on some work he had to do. He then cooked a delicious meal using, I think, some vegetables that his parents grew.

Later, we went by car to a bar in town. I was treated to a few glasses of gin and tonic, served by some chatty ladies and the proprietor. They kept refilling my glass when I had taken but a few sips.

As always, my impressions of a place are highly dependant on the weather. I wandered around for a while, and the clouds gradually cleared, allowing me to take lots of photographs. Hagi is famous for its Edo period walls, samurai houses, natsumikan (bitter mandarins) and Hagiyaki pottery. I tried to make sure I found photos that exemplified the area.

Round by the castle area was a Christian cemetery. When the Christians of Nagasaki were persecuted for their faith, many were forced to live in other places, and a number came to Hagi. There was a lot of work to do in the area.

There were also a number of free entry houses. It was good to be able to go in and take photos, without breaking my budget. Often, they are staffed by volunteers, so I was able to find out something about the houses. When there aren’t any other tourists around, they can be very peaceful places, since the interiors are uncluttered with the sort of things that would make an English house “homely” or “cosy.”

I’ve taken to asking permission in every shop before I start snapping. Most people respond positively. In one small shop, there were some interesting objects - tea sets and flower pots. The large flower pot was on sale for over 10,000 dollars! I wish my art could fetch such fantastic values. I took my time, and the kind lady offered me a cup of green tea. It was very welcome, since I hadn’t yet thought about breakfast. I gave her one of my namecards. As I was leaving, she handed me a cheese bap in a plastic bag. I made sure that the bag was full before depositing it in a litter bin. It seemed a small, indirect way of repaying the kindness, and lightened the load of the work.

By mid-afternoon, tiring somewhat, I dithered at first about where to go next. The clouds seemed to be gathering again, so I didn’t think it would be worthwhile taking the coast road down to Shimonoseki. I decided to return to the expressway via Yamaguchi. There were two roads - a toll road and a normal one. I chose the latter, and stood by a convenient stopping place.

The gentleman who gave me a lift was turning off just before Yamaguchi. It would have been nice to get to the parking area just up the road, but since we didn’t know exactly where it was, I was dropped at the junction. Actually, it was very convenient, as there was a large supermarket nearby where I could get some cheap food.

Better still, I only waited for a minute before getting a lift to the Ogori interchange. By now it was late, and getting very cold. I changed into my winter wear - hat, gloves and thick, woolly socks. I was lucky to get a truck going to Fukuoka. He stopped for a while to pick up something in Shimonoseki. There, I took some snaps of the tower. Just in time - the lights went out a few minutes afterwards. The folks in the office allowed me to recharge my batteries while I was waiting.

One guy offered me a mandarin. He had two in his hands, and the Japanese doesn’t distinguish between the singular and the plural. Naturally, I thought I was going to be given both. My thoughts must have been highly visible on my face as I received only one, that the gent then gave me the other. I must remember not to think. It’s troublesome that ones insides are so visible in this culture.

I was then dropped in Koga services, in Kyushu. Feeling too tired to continue hitching, I found a place to rest.

I think I must be lacking in vitamins, because I was given some apples and one of those bitter mandarins today, and also bought some bananas.

The view of St. Xavier’s church, with fog in the foreground, was, I’m told, very beautiful. Today, however, there was no fog. I climbed the small mountain instead. I was too late to catch the best of the sun. Sometimes I sleep in - pulling my hat over my eyes so that I can’t tell what time of day it is. I’m not sure that there is a correct place to take the picture of the church from, though. It’s probably better in the afternoon. Instead, I found a statue of the gentleman in question.

From the hilltop, I headed down to a small temple, Ryufukuji, stopping on the riverside to eat breakfast. Outside one house was a collection of plants and a water pool similar to those in temples. I ought to look out for the cultural within the ordinary and day-to-day.

First thing in the morning, the temple was quite empty. There were sufficient car parks around to believe that it would get quite busy at peak seasons. The autumn colours were perfect. Inside the main hall, sandals left by the entrance, I stooped to take photos, mostly using fill-in flash. The paper doors caught my attention, and with nobody watching, I set up the camera on timer mode, and ran round to catch the typical Japanese photograph pose - giving the victory sign (though I doubt if many Japanese know that this is its meaning, started by, I believe, Sir Winston Churchill.)

There was a little walk to the five-storied pagoda. Again, reading the literature, I discovered that this is one of the three designated pagodas of Japan. I ought to find out which are the other two - perhaps Kyoto and Nara, but that’s only a guess. On the way there, I decided to skip a shrine that I thought was just a relic, but on reading the guide leaflets, might be something more. Well, it gives me a reason to return to the city.

There was still some sunlight between thickening clouds for me to take photos in. The crowds were beginning to swell, though, making it more difficult to catch my usual scenes. Also, the crowds put pressure on me when I’m taking my snaps. I have to watch that I’m not in somebody else’s photographs, and that I’m not preventing someone from taking a good photograph by standing in an awkward position.

Having completed my tour of the pagoda and it’s neighbouring temple, I started walking back to the main road, heading towards Hagi. At a Sunkus convenience store, I bought some bread and ham, then stood by the roadside making and eating my sandwiches. I noticed a car stopped a little further on, with its indicators flashing. So, I picked up my rucksack and bread and ran all the way.

A lady was in the car, talking on her mobile. Pity. The run did me some good, so I just kept walking. Sometime later, I suddenly wondered where my camera was. I hadn’t put it in my bag. I must have left it by the convenience store. So, I had to walk all the way back. Never mind! At least the camera was waiting for me.

I finally got a lift going all the way into Hagi. I wasn’t quite sure where to go, but was dropped near the station, which was quite convenient. There is a small information office nearby, so I went in to get some advice and a local map. It is, however, quite a walk from the station to the samurai area of the town. On the way, I went past a school that was built of wood, but didn’t take any snaps.

The samurai walls looked great, but the sun was setting, so I just continued towards the castle. There is a small youth hostel nearby, but I didn’t wish to spend my money so quickly. I walked down by the castle, discovering that a part of the beach has been made into a camping ground. Well, that just means that it is permissible to camp here for free, and only running water and some rubbish bins are provided. I was surprised that there was no toilet. I found a place to eat my sandwiches. It was also possible to recharge my batteries and use my computer for a while.

A cat came to talk. Most cats don’t talk. They are frightened of people. I had noticed that some people try to order cats to love them and drag them onto t heir laps. I’m not surprised that this negation of feline independence results in a dislike of Japanese people, which sadly becomes a dislike of people in general. Cats need their freedoms, but I guess this would cause trouble with the neighbours. I’m beginning to think I ought to read “I am a Cat” by Natsume Soseki. I think he probably spotted much more about the nature of cats and humans who wish to be independent and free. Personally, I think that if a cat is allowed to choose to give its love of its own free will, it will do so generously.

I awoke at about six, so connected onto the Internet to update my homepage. It took quite a long time, since I seem to select lots of my photos. I think I will need to weed out my photos, or perhaps have two versions of the program - one for the CD and the other for the Internet. That will take quite a bit of programming. I don’t know when I’ll get time for that.

I gave the Takeda’s their CD and some photographs. Mrs Takeda wanted to pay me for it, and handed me a small envelope. Inside was the equivalent of ten days of living expenses for me. I felt it was too much, so left it on the shelf.

Mr. Takeda drove me to Kintaikyo bridge. As I got out of the van, he took a photo, and then went back for something. He handed me a ten-day living expense note, for staying in a hotel, if I needed to. I felt I couldn’t say no.

I quite enjoyed traipsing around the area. The bridge is under repair, apparently due to earthquake damage, so I was unable to take a all-encompassing “get-it-all-in” photograph, which hardly bothers me at all. At first, I was reluctant to pay the 200 yen to go across. I went over the nearby road bridge. From the other side, though, I decided it was worth the small expense.

I took lots of photos as usual, since I like lines and shadows. The ticket allows one to cross back again. The bridge, I later discovered, is one of the three designated famous bridges of Japan.

On the far side, I went round some of the samurai areas, and then to the small white snake compound. White snakes are indigenous to this area only in Japan. There were about half a dozen in one large glass cage, with some babies as well.

Once I’d taken a few snaps, I set off for Yamaguchi. I walked for a while on the main road. A car pulled over. “Please show me your passport.” the gentleman demanded. “I am a policeman in charge of foreigners.” It seems that there are lots of foreign criminals in this area. In response to my questioning why he had stopped me, he mentioned the recent terrorist attacks in America. Perhaps he thought I was about to hijack a plane, since civilisation in some Muslim countries has decided that the natural state of man is preferable to the more common hairless version.

Still, he then offered to take me to the expressway interchange. From there, I was able to get a lift to the next services, and then on to the Ogori junction. I started walking along the road into Yamaguchi, but was fortunately given a lift right to the station.

The guide book recommends the information office in the station, so I went in to get ideas for good places to take photos. They told me a few spots, and gave me lots of pamphlets. I also asked where the other two famous bridges in Japan are. Apparently, the Arashiyama bridge is one of them, but nobody seems to know where the other is. I apologised for asking such difficult questions.

I wandered through town, finding things to do and looking for a place to stay. Some of the park benches that are under cover have already been taken by the regular homeless. They also bed down in the underpassages. I guess that might be an option, but it is likely to cause trouble to people walking through. I eventually found a place to use my computer, and after writing some of my belated diaries, found another place to stay for the night.

I took several CDs to church with me - just in case. It was a medium-sized church, by Japanese standards. The high school students sang one song partially in English. Many Japanese pop singers insert English lines into their songs, so I guess this was nothing unusual. I only understood a little of the sermon - my mind tends to wander, rather than concentrate.

Afterwards, we chatted to some people on the walk back to the car. One lady comes from New York and is now living with her family in Hiroshima. I now have a small album of the Canadian photos to show to people. However, it still isn’t sufficient to bring interest in the CDs.

After a brief lunch, we set of again for the Kagura dancing. Again, it was quite far out in the countryside. The car park was almost full when we arrived, even though we had over half an hour to spare before the start. I decided it would be better to select a plot near the front right, where if I took photos, I wouldn’t be disturbing anyone behind me. We had a can of cocoa before the show started, which was a bad idea, because it meant I needed to go to the toilet for most of the time.

I could just about follow the gist of the story. The umbrella man was able to react to the audience quite remarkably - and the audience participation was also astonishing. Maybe that’s what’s expected at this kind of performance.

The story seemed to be about an old lady who begs the umbrella man for one of his wares. But, she turns out to be a demon in disguise. All demons have lots of facial hair and extended features. All people with lots of facial hair and extended features are demons. The demons killed the umbrella man. Two handsome well-shaved samurai took revenge, swirling with swords and eventually cut of the arm of one demon. All heroes put knives to their throats daily to scrape of any vestiges of “uncivilisation”. I doubt if there’s much difference between this and the plots of American movies.

After the performance, a gentleman came to take my photo. I obliged, but had to go to the toilet soon afterwards to remove that can of cocoa. He wanted to give me something, but I NEVER collect souvenirs - I only take photos. I had to decline the gift. The actors came to the front to bow and hand out “mochi” - rice that is very sticky and hammered into a paste. Actually, they threw it into the audience, causing a most terrible scrabble for each one. I was pleased that we managed to persuade one gentleman to hand them out in a more clean-shaven manner, for I’m quite fond of mochi. However, we then forgot to eat them in the evening (or maybe they weren’t intended for me.)

On the way home, we stopped at the supermarket where Kie was working. She suggested I cook the lamb that I had mentioned before. I didn’t quite understand. Then it clicked that she meant rum - the pronunciation is similar in Japanese. So, I bought the necessary ingredients, only I forgot that I sometimes put a cherry in the middle to brighten the pineapples.

After the meal, when Kie had returned, I made the flambé. It worked well, and a diamond of apple did the trick for the centre-piece. We chatted until quite late. Then I continued with my computer work until about 1 a.m. Unfortunately, I tried to use the computer while writing some of the CDs, which means that it gets a buffer underrun, and I end up having to throw it away. I was only able to program one batch of photos onto CD, so I haven’t cleared up much space for the next lot of photos. I made the special version of the CD with the Canada photos and all the photos of Japan in Autumn up to today.

We took the bus down to the station. The bus was at 8.45, I was told. This, of course, is the time to be ready by - about five minutes before the time the bus actually departed. Then there was a train journey to our destination - Mitaki Temple. Apparently, there are three waterfalls here.

There was lots to photograph, so I just took my time. At one of the temples, an American guy chatted. He is a principle of a school in America. After taking each photo, I showed them to Mrs. Takeda, since there is little to do when I am busy. I prefer to go slowly to see even the little things.

There was an ugly demon guarding one of the temple buildings. Such fearsome demons are supposed to be more frightening than real demons, so that they do not enter the Today, I had remembered to bring a bag. I figured I would start on the walk back down to the station, but we took the bus. I turned down the offer of some noodles, saying that I often don’t eat during the day. However, in telling the ugly truth, I am forcing someone else to submit to the things that I deny myself in order to keep to my budget or make the most of available sunlight. I wonder why I feel the need to “tell the truth” without consideration for the effect that it will have. Perhaps I am excused as a foreigner, because I don’t know the ways of the Japanese. However, I know enough that I should be able to predict the effect of my “truth” - which isn’t really the truth, anyway.

There was a second temple that we could have gone to, but I felt it wasn’t necessary to rush and see everything. Actually, usually when one rushes one only says that one sees everything when in fact one sees very little.

We went, instead to a mountain. There were some nice trees and a good view over the city. When I first came to the city view, I thought it would be ugly. It is easy to program oneself with prejudices that later prevent me from seeing beauty. There were some sculptures dotted around the mountain, including a Henry Moore. Nearby, someone was practicing the saxophone.

We returned home via the tram and train. I spent some time again sorting out the photos and preparing them for the CD and the Internet. There was a program on the TV about the Harry Potter movie.

The Takeda family suggested I stay until Monday, since Mr. Takeda is going to work in Iwakuni, and could drive me all the way to the Kintaikyo bridge. It seemed like a good idea to me. Today is a public holiday, so they took me to Sandankyo. It was an hour’s drive from their home, up the expressway. I wished I had brought my computer with me - I could have done some catching up on the way there and back.

We took a bus from a nearby station. There was a steam engine parked outside. I clambered around in the driver’s cabin, but didn’t take any snaps. At the start of the walk, there were lots more cars parked. We checked the map that we were given with the bus ride, and aimed to walk all the way to the end and back.

It was a very pleasant walk. First we went to Nidandaki. On the way, I took lots of snaps, pressing the pause button on the camera, and allowing my hosts to see them. At Nidandaki there is a boat with overhead ropes which our pilot used to pull us through a narrow gorge to a small promontory in front of a waterfall. I think there were about twenty people in the boat, and a further twenty on a boat that we passed on the way. There were twenty more people on the promontory, taking our places in the boat. I’m sure we hadn’t seen so many people on the way here, but people seem to arise from nowhere in Japan.

The waterfall was great. I waded into the freezing water to get some photos. I wished I could have taken a photo of the pure, clear water in the gorge - it was very deep and dark..

On the way to Sandandaki, we came across a snake. I was able to get quite close to it. However, Mrs. Takeda doesn’t like snakes, so we had to chase it away before she would come past. Later on, I took what seemed to be a short-cut. It turned out to be a short-cut to the return road - I had to run back to catch up.

Almost everyone says “konnichiwa” in Hiroshima. Maybe it’s only in the Tokyo area that nobody talks. Sometimes there were a lot of people. I felt like saying “konnde iru michi wa-” - which sounds similar, and translates “Wow, it’s quite a crowded path, isn’t it?” The waterfalls at Sandandaki were also great. The Takedas waited patiently, as I took my snaps from every angle. Actually, they got chatting to several people. They also made some origami-style boats from leaves, and floated them down the river.

We had planned to go to the lake at the top, but there wasn’t time. The photography takes a lot of time. Usually, it takes me about double the allotted time - sometime more. It doesn’t matter to me. I’d prefer to take my time and notice the small things. I even managed to write a Japanese haiku - “doko e iku - guru guru mawatte - boku no you” which translates “Where are you going, round and round in circles, a bit like me?” Unfortunately, my version of the photo software doesn’t let me type in Japanese. Maybe that’s just as well - the grammar is kind of wonky.

On the way home, we stopped at a large department store. I bought a small photo-file so that I can display the photos in my CD of Canada. I also needed a replacement for my A4 plastic cover that I use to put my signs into. I can’t find one that loads from the short side - the all load from the long side. It means that when it rains, I can only put one page inside, and have to hold it upside-down. Finally, I bought a new visitors’ book - my current one is likely to be full by the mid-December, and I don’t know if I’ll have the chance to buy one before then. There are always some things that I have to buy in advance.

In the evening, I sifted through the photographs, selecting my favourites to put on the web. I had to make two versions of the album, to ensure that the snake didn’t appear when showing them to the Takeda’s.

There was an American movie on the TV. I don’t remember the title, but it never matters. The bad guys kill the worse guys and all of life’s problems are in stantly solved. There are no good guys in American movies. The final solution is always death by gun. Prior to that, I am supposed to feel terrible fear that the bad guys might not make it to hero status and fanfares at the end.

We arrived at Asa in the morning, and had a Japanese-style breakfast. The gentleman pointed to the hillside opposite, saying that there were probably wild boar living there.

It wasn’t long before I was on my way into Hiroshima. By now I was quite tired, so I think I slept most of the way. It was a pity, because the morning mist was only beginning to rise, and the mountains are particularly beautiful when you can see only the base and the tops. I think it is also a part of Japanese art to separate everything with clouds, although I am no great student of art.

I was dropped outside the Atomic Dome.

The weather was excellent. I wandered around the park, and the atomic dome. As I went, I wrote some haiku, usually finding some pleasant seat where I could remove my rucksack and think for a moment or two. I have no answers, only further questions. Perhaps the haiku are too cryptic. Perhaps I should endeavour to explain them.

A gentleman was collecting signatures. The victims of the atomic bomb wish to sue the American government. I think they will find it difficult, especially since their own government has set few examples of making full retribution for its predecessor’s crimes.

I didn’t walk far. There were too many thoughts on my mind. When I felt I had taken enough photos, I made my way to Hiroshima castle. However, it is currently under repair.

It would be nice to meet up with Kie; I thought, maybe going to a coffee shop or something. When I telephoned, she suggested I stay for the night. I was quite surprised! So, we arranged to meet at the train station in half an hour.

We took the train - it wasn’t so expensive. I showed Kie some of the photos as we went along. Kie has a part-time job in a nearby supermarket, so I walked along the riverbank in Kabe for a while, trying to catch the sunset, but failing. I watched some small fish jumping in the river. They sensed my presence, and moved away. I did some work around the streets and riverbanks of Kabe.

At seven, I phoned for the address, and then set off in the approximate direction. I was able to figure out the way from the block numbers on the telegraph poles and above some doorways. A complete map of one of the sectors gave, as usual, all the names of the residents, so I was easily able to find the house.

We had a pleasant meal together, and I showed some of the photos on the computer.

Sleeping in a hostel usually means getting up late, and making the most of the available power. I thought it would only be seven when I arose. It was almost eight. I continued to work on the computer, and didn’t have any breakfast, just a glass or two of water. I’ll probably use this hostel again someday. It’s only 1650 yen, but much less strict than a youth hostel.

My aim for the day was to go from Ginkakuji (Silver Pavillion temple) to Nanzenji along the Tetsugaku walk. It was a very pleasant day, with excellent sunshine. I didn’t go into Ginkakuji, to keep to my budget. However, I went into several of the temples along the way, which I hadn’t been to before. One had an interesting water source, with the water dripping from a plucked leaf. There were also some Maiko (young Geisha girls) visiting. I took a few snaps. Someday I shall have to learn how to take photos of people.

The autumn leaves were excellent. When I arrived in Nanzenji, the sun was getting low in the sky. I spotted a good view through a doorway, but there were always people coming and going. I waited for some time. Then a lady noticed my photo, and asked me to take one of her. I asked her to wait a while, but it was a bad idea. She then found someone else, and every time the doorway cleared of people, she was in the way. She apologised, but perhaps my face betrayed my feelings - inexcusable, childish behaviour in this culture. Fortunately, there was a second or two about ten minutes later, when I got the photo I wanted, although it was taken in a rush, so the column isn’t quite straight.

I dithered a bit about what to do next. Clearly, I had to hitch somewhere, to recharge my batteries. I again set foot for the eastern highway entrance, and just kept walking. A gentleman on a bicycle stopped to chat. He is into video, having given up on normal photography. He offered to let me stay at his house. It was tempting, but I felt I had to press on. Perhaps I’ll call in some other time. When I got to the expressway, I didn’t go up to the ticket area, but chose to head towards Otsu. In the end, I walked all the way to the service area, completing certain duties as I went.

The free tea was very welcome. I recharged my batteries as I waited, wondering if anyone was going towards Najio services on the Chugoku expressway. I think most people were heading towards Osaka.

Finally, though, a gentleman gave me a lift - all the way to Asa services just before Hiroshima. It was definitely worth walking to Otsu for. He treated me to a meal at one service area. He was returning from some hunting in Hokkaido, travelling overnight to Oita in Kyushu.

With the batteries all charged, I was able to plug in the computer and get on with some more work as we travelled. I also kept an eye on the road, because I sensed that my driver was quite tired. From time to time, he would pull into a service area and sleep. At first, I tried to also, but being unable to, I just continued typing. It was very useful.