Reggie Thomson’s Diary

I was too tired to do any computing, and decided against staying to do my computing. So, I phoned Lake Louise hostel to book one night. It costs 23.50$ per night. “What do I get for all that money?” I asked. “A cafeteria, sauna, small rooms, and, of course, the nearby beautiful Lakes Louise and Moraine.” Well, maybe I’ll get some sleep! I put the sign for Banff, and walked almost all the way down the mountain. Nearing the bottom, I changed to the sign to Athabasca. It did the trick! A Spanish couple stopped for me. They were very chatty, and wanted to know all about Japanese culture. They also stopped at the tourist sights on the way, but the clouds had begun to gather, and it even snowed at one point.

I fell asleep for a while - it catches up with me. The couple drove me all the way to the hostel. I wasn’t able to check in until three, so decided to pay for my third restaurant meal of the whole journey - Cajun Chicken Caesar. It was delicious and nutritious. An American lady and her girlfriend sat down to chat.

After checking in, I put my stuff in the room, locking it under the bed. Then, I set off for the famous lake along the tramline walkway. I took plenty of snaps on the way up. However, I was tired, and the lake is definately not so beautiful in cloudy weather. Indeed, I wondered what all the fuss was about.

I walked all the way back to the village, even though my right knee is sore - I couldn’t bend it. I bought some hot chocolate as a special luxury in the only market in town. That evening, I cooked up some pasta and tuna - enough for three meals. I had three plastic bags in the fridge, all labelled “Reggie” and dated, though I’m not sure I changed the date on the bag with the bread and the Cadbury’s chocolate.

At nine-thirty, I went to the sauna. It was warm, but not sizzling. I prefer the Japanese ones, where I am sweating after a few minutes. I took a shower and went to bed. There are two bunks in the room, and a ladder going up to a double bed. The couple didn’t arrive until the middle of the night - so much for a good night’s sleep. I’m not sure that it is ever possible at a youth hostel, regardless of the price that one pays.

I decided not to hitch to the Mount Edith Cavell hostel, but to walk over the mountains. I figured it would be about six hours of walking, plus two hours for the 1000m elevation, plus an hour for stops. I typed some more of the diaries before the 10a.m. checkout, packed almost 2 litres of water, and set off. One guy told me that the skyline walk was one of the best in the area.

I whistled and sang as I plodded up through the forest. One hiker on his way down said that he had seen a bear, but all I saw were the poops. Perhaps that’s just as well. I was at the Signal campsite by 12.15, so stopped for lunch. Most people I met on the way chatted for a few minutes. It was a great climb, with lots of photo opportunities, including some animals that were later identified as marmots. I even saw what I think was a Pika, but I was too far away to get a photo.

Two climbers told me how long it had taken them to get walk from Curator. I had been aiming to get there by six so that I would be out of the forest by nine, but that was beginning to look unlikely. I gave out my namecards along the way, partly for security - so that at least someone would know how far I got, if I was eaten by a bear!

I enjoyed the tiny glacier at the start of the ridge walk, stopping for some more cheese sandwiches and a ration of water. By the time I got onto the top, the clouds were gathering - not rain clouds, and quite high, so not obscuring the distant mountains, just making it darker. It became windy, and I was worried about hiking in the dark through the forest. I began to run on the downhill stretches. From the Notch, it was downhill all the way, but at first too steep and stony to run.

Another couple of marmots - probably mother and child - distracted me for fifteen minutes. I was able to get within five metres without unduly disturbing them.

At the Curator campsite, I chatted with some folks there. They were amused that I had brought my computer with me up the mountain, so I gave them a brief slide show! They were taking some school children on a hike. I should, perhaps, have asked for some more water, since they had a filter.

I started running again. The sun gradually sank, and for a few minutes I caught a glimpse of the golden mountains. Soon it was dark. I sang, but the songs deteriorated into “Hey, Hey, Hey!” The torch came out.

At one point, I heard a cracking sound nearby. I sang louder, and went slowly back up the track for a while. Then, I figured I just had to keep going, despite the risks. I bellowed out and walked on. At a signpost, I tried to take a photograph. There was another crunching in the woods. I backed off and the singing got worse - more like shouting. I came back to peer at the map with my torch and attempted to memorise the route - round the lake, up the wiggle and straight to the road.

It was eleven p.m. before I reached the relative security of the road. Two cars went by. Two bad guys, I thought. The third one stopped - amazed that anyone would be hitching at this time of night. They took me to the service station in Jasper, where I drank a whole litre of Sprite.

I eventually got through to the youth hostel. It was just a courtesy call, to let them know that I was safe. I had booked a room in another hostel, and if I hadn’t turned up, maybe someone would have been worried. Actually, I was told that there was a spare bed at the Jasper hostel, open until two, and they might even be able to transfer my reservation. I bought some bread for tomorrow.

Hitching out of town, I was picked up by two German guys returning to the campsite. They drove me all the way up to the hostel, which was kind of them. I checked in, and was assigned a bed - the guy hadn’t turned up. When I went to find it, there was someone already in it. I was given another bed - maybe a Dutch guy hadn’t moved as he had requested. Bad luck! That bed was also occupied. I took a shower while the receptionists tried to figure out which bed was free. Thirty-nine was. I was soon trying to g et to sleep - to little avail. The guy below me was snoring heavily. Then, the staff started their regular 2.30 a.m. clearing of the kitchens above - moving the chairs to wake up all the light sleepers, but leave only the snorers asleep. Hostel staff should obey the 11 p.m. curfew on noise.

I got up, and bumped into another guy - the Dutch guy - who also couldn’t sleep. In the end, we both decided to sleep upstairs in the lounge area, which was cooler and didn’t have any snorers. Someday snoring will be seen as being as anti-social as nicotine addicts and their smoke. Fortunately, Hollywood doesn’t idolise snoring.

It was another disturbed night in a stuffy room full of snorers. I wonder why they don’t install fans or air conditioners to clean the air and provide continuous background noise to drown the irregular snores.

I booked a bed at Maligne Canyon hostel, then set off, hitching as always. This time, an English couple gave me a lift down to the river. It was a pleasant walk into town, and then I continued on towards the Canyon. This time, I didn’t have to walk all the way there. Another couple picked me up, and waited for me at the Maligne Canyon hostel. At first, I couldn’t find the lockers. I knocked on the attendant’s house door, but he was busy on the phone. A further check revealed that the lockers were outside, in a tall enclosure. I sorted out everything I didn’t need, and repacked my day’s provisions.

We drove slowly, stopping for the views of Medicine Lake, the lake that disappears in winter. There didn’t appear to be any bears or elk along the route, but we saw some Bighorn Sheep - a large group that seemed fairly tame.

It was a beautiful day. I began taking photos of the boathouse and lake ferries, then bought a drink to have with my cheese sandwiches. As I was munching, I noticed that the sun had an almost perfect rainbow halo around it, on a thin layer of cloud. Nobody else saw it! I took snaps of the effect, putting the sun behind the trees. One lady asked what was in the tree. I suggested that she put her hand up in front of the sun, and observe the rainbow. “How did you see that?” she was puzzled. “I just use my eyes!” I replied, surprised that so few people ever look up! The clouds in the distance were also beautiful - light whisps and twirls. I guess we rarely look at clouds or the sky. Perhaps we are distracted by this world.

I continued with the photography. The canoes cost from 20$ per hour, and the ferry to Spirit Island - the most photographed spot in the Rockies, according to one report - was 35$. I chose to walk round the lake a little. At one secluded spot, I lay down to nap for half an hour, catching up a bit on the lost sleep of the last two nights.

I found a pair of glasses on the beach, so put them in my rucksack, intending to hand them in at the restaurant. I forgot, and just started hitching back to the hostel. Again, there were no bears to be seen.

The hostel doesn’t have running water, but keeps a supply of drinking water in the kitchen. A lady with four children was also staying for a few nights. I showed them some of the snaps. The switched seamlessly between English and French. I had some time to sort out the photos of the past few days. A group of ladies were preparing for a three-day hike in the mountains - with about 50lbs each. That’s over 22kgs. I keep my weight to about 16kg, but it made me think that I should be able to manage with a little more for a trek over the mountains.

The mixed dorm was woken up just before eight when someone’s alarm went off - and they weren’t there to switch it off. I had a sleepy breakfast. There was no bus into town, so Satsuki would have to hitch to get to her horse-riding stables. I booked for another night, then started walking down the hill. A couple gave me a ride on the back of their pickup van. They lived near Steinbach, Manitoba.

I took some snaps of town, then bumped into Satsuki again, on a hired bicycle. She wasn’t sure what to do this evening, and wants to go to Angel Glacier. I suggested we hitch there together tomorrow. She then went to the information centre to book another night at the Jasper hostel, while I went to get some provisions for the day. I bought a bear bell for 4$, but balked at the 50$ price for pepper spray.

I set off along the main road for the Maligne canyon. Nobody stopped, but it was a pleasant walk. Near the river, I heard an unusual crowing, and spotted an osprey in its nest. This time, I decided that the aim was not to disturb the bird, so I used the cover of trees to get close. The photo isn’t as impressive as the PEI one, but maybe there are more important things than photos.

The signs along the road warned of bears - don’t get out of your car. I walked almost as far as the canyon before getting a lift with two folks from the hostel. They were going up to the lake. I wanted to see the canyon first, so jumped out there.

I really enjoyed the canyon, taking lots of photos of it. There was also a squirrel eating its pine cones on what seemed to be a favourite stone. I continued to photograph it until some other tourists came by, and thought it fun to whistle and disturb it so that it ran across the river.

Further down, I ate my lunch by the river bank, dipping my feet into the freezing water. I went all the way down to the fifth bridge, then came back, in case the changing position of the sun gave a different perspective.

A deer was grazing by the path, and it let me get within ten metres of it. However, it was in the shade, so the photos were all slightly blurred. I crossed the bridge, but on noticing a longhorn sheep on the other bank, went back to take photos. Again, it let me creep to within ten metres.

I had taken so many photos, and hadn’t brought my car recharger with me. It didn’t seem worth it to hitch on up to the lake. I set off back to the hostel. A Russian couple stopped. They work in the restaurant by the lake, and every evening after work, go for a swim in Lake Edith. So, I had a pleasant splash in the crystal clear water. It was quite warm, too.

They drove me all the way to the hostel, and even offered me accommodation in their appartment for a few nights. At first, I said I had already payed at the hostel, but then I thought it would cost me no more. I took my rucksack with me into the hostel, saying I would be back in five to ten minutes when I had packed.

Satsuki wasn’t around, and hadn’t booked in - maybe the hostel was full. I stuffed my belongings into the backpack, but when I went out to the car park, the couple had departed. Maybe there was a misunderstanding. I returned to the hostel, and reclaimed my bed.

The Dutch couple that had given me a lift in the morning, had seen a bear with cubs near the river, and had enjoyed Lake Maligne. I decided to change my plans, and go to the lake myself.

The weather seems to have improved. Jim gave me a map of BC/Alberta, which I swapped for my Yellowhead map (Yellowhead is the road from Winnipeg to Prince Rupert). He stopped at a garage, but the shop was too small for me to get provisions for the day, so he drove over to the a grocery store opposite. He also plied me with some biscuits and bread, which was very kind of him.

As we approached the Rockies, I figured I ought to jump out and take some photos. I reckoned it would be easy to hitch the remaining distance into Jasper, and wanted to spend some time taking snaps. We stopped at the first viewing spot for Mt. Robson, which was in perfect sunshine. Mt. Robson is the highest peak in the Rockies. By the time I had packed all my belongings and said good-bye, a cloud had begun to obscure the peak. I took lots of snaps, returning to the hitching between each bout. Gradually the cloud lifted sufficiently for me.

I was surprised that a second, even larger, RV stopped for me. The couple were on there way into Jasper. They told me how they had been deported from China once, because the embassy had given them a visa that was valid from date of issue, not from the date of travelling.

Pooch made a new friend - a ladybug (ladybird) that travelled with them. It’s good travelling with other tourists, because we stopped at lots of places to take photos. The Mt. Robson visitors’ centre was where I got the best snap. I noticed that the mountain isn’t often visible, so I think I was lucky. We also stopped at a point where interned Japanese people had been used as slave labour to build the Yellowhead highway.

I was dropped right by the Jasper visitors’ centre. There, I inquired about the local beauty spots, and was able to phone the youth hostel for free. They had a bed available. First, though, I wanted to take some pictures and buy some more provisions.

The youth hostel is some five or six km from town centre. I walked to the base of the road beyond the campsite. A pickup van stopped. I jumped into the back where there was already a hitch-hiker. Satsuki lives in Kobe, and grew up in Himeji. When we got to the hostel, I jumped out, forgetting my plastic bag of food! I raced after the car as soon as I realised, but I was too late!

So, that evening, I ate only the provisions that Jim had given me - some bread and biscuits. I chatted with Satsuki and another group of Japanese folk for a while. As I was eating, the gentleman who had given us a lift returned - with my eggs and other food! It was very kind of him.

I started my washing just before ten, to be sure that I finished before quiet time at eleven. Then I read the signs on the wall - if you have come from BC, don’t forget to adjust your clocks! It was eleven o’clock, and the guy on the desk was just pulling the switches on all the electricity to the rooms and laundry.

I tucked in, but it was very hot - I couldn’t get to sleep. At 1.30, I went upstairs to nosey throught the pamphlets on the area.

I started onto the diaries early. However, I was quite surprised to hear the announcement that we would soon be docking. Maybe we had made good progress last night, and were docking early. It was pouring with rain as I walked off the boat. The customs officer wanted to see my plane ticket. While I was digging it out of the bottom of the rucksack, he asked me all possible questions. He wanted to know how much money I had, and if I had a backup plan in case I couldn’t hitch out of Prince Rupert - it’s very remote. “I suppose I could take the bus,” I replied.

I plodded through the rain, holding up my sign for “Terrace” at every passing car. Stopping at the first gas station, I bought some chocolate bars for sustainance. A gentleman asked if I would like a lift. He was going all the way to Prince Rupert! So much for backup plans!

This was my first RV (Recreational Vehicle), a self-contained house. It was pleasant to chat, and I forgot to look at the “architecturally un-planned” Prince Rupert. There was some beautiful scenery along the shoreline - lots of reeds and grasses that seemed to form a natural garden landscape. I took lots of photos as we went, guaging that it would be good practise to learn how to take photos quickly. I also had to adjust the clock on my camera - British Columbia is one hour ahead of Alaska - no wonder we seemed to arrive early in port.

The police were out in force, today, catching lots of speedsters! It’s a hefty fine - 100 dollars per 10kph over the limit, plus 15$ per passenger put at risk! Sometimes when hitching I sing “Slow down, you’re going too fast,” - the Simon and Garfunkel hit. Jim often says “Slow down and smell the roses.” Great! It gave me an idea for a poem/song I have been composing since my Asia trip. Now I think I have completed the chorus, but it may take a lifetime to write the verse. The chorus now goes:

I guess I’ll write the verses someday. The original went: “I love mountains, I love snow…” Now I’m thinking it would be better “Love is mountains…” At one point, we noticed two bears, right by the roadside. It would have been nice to have taken a photo, but it is a little more difficult for an RV to just pull over to the side, and it is foolish to get out. In fact, the recommendation is that you don’t even stop. Still, it was nice to have seen them. We spotted a single black bear later in the evening, but it dived into the woods as we went by. Jim is a diabetic, so we had to stop occasionally for him to check his blood. He wasn’t sure whether he should visit his sister in Seatle and take the road down from Prince George, or just continue on towards home in Montana, via Jasper and Banff. In the end, he decided on the direct route home. So, I spent one night in his “house,” just outside Prince George. We finished off some delicious stew before retiring.

I had discovered the showers the previous evening, so took one first thing. It was a bit dull and misty. However, we still managed to spot a few distant whales. I have some photos of the sea and clouds, with just a speck of white where the whale disappeared. One whale was jumping out of the water. The Forest Interpreter gave a talk at eleven on whales. Apparently, they swim in a circle and blow bubbles round the ball of krill to make it into a small ball. Then one whale comes up the centre to get a mouthfull. Usually, it is a different whale jumping each time.

I didn’t hear much of the talk on whales. Every time another was spotted, I rushed out to see if I could get a photo. It’s very difficult, since they appear only for a few seconds to blow. On maximum zoom, it is hard to find the whales. Still, I have some photos to prove that I saw them - if that’s what the photos are for. I’ll put them on the internet, but they will need to be thinned out eventually.

The Forest Interpreter started telling a long story about canoeing with his cousin, who tended to want to do his own thing. I missed most of it.

A lady sat opposite for a while. She is a swimming pool designer in California. She didn’t think there was much city planning in some Canadian towns such as Prince Rupert. Her kids were looking forward to fish and chips in the cafeteria.

There was a brief stop at Petersburg at midday. I jumped off the ship to take some photos, but one barely had time to get to the port, and couldn’t walk all the way into town. It is a fishing village, with many millionaire fishermen.

I didn’t get off in Wrangler - we only stopped for twenty-five minutes. There were some ancient patterns drawn on rocks by the shore. The ship actually stayed there longer, to do some minor repairs to the engine. I just typed more of the diaries Later, I watched the movie “Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon” - a Chinese fantasy.

Sleep, part two, was on the ferry. I then took some snaps of the passing scenery. A Forest Interpreter is on board, since there are no roads between the towns we are visiting - only ferries and airfields. He gave us a talk on the glaciers. I was too busy photographing the glaciers to notice some whale activity.

We had just over two hours in Juneau. By my calculation, I could hitch to the glacier, take some photos, and hitch or run back. So, I rushed off the ferry, carrying my backpack. I could have left it behind, but there was a risk I mightn’t make it back. I had walked a short way when a lady stopped. She was taking some students back to an appartment, and then drove me all the way to the visitors centre by the Mindenhall lake and glacier, telling me that I might see bears by the stream, and that there was a bus down part of the road.

I rushed round to the lake front. It was great to see icebergs for the first time. They are only small, and I’m told its rare to actually see the iceberg “calving"e; because it is on a non-tidal lake. I took some close-ups, and noticed the dead salmon by the lakeside. The salmon come back up the river to mate and die. I even used a stick to pull one tiny iceberg to the side. I held it, but didn’t taste it - what with the rotting salmon nearby. It is reckoned to be around 250 years old.

Round by the river, there were lots of Sockeye salmon but no bears. I overheard someone saying that there had been four about ten minutes before they arrived. Doubtless the noise of the tourists frightened them away. I chatted briefly to a couple, then decided to finish off my drink so that I would be lighter for the run to the ferry.

It was a struggle running. After about ten minutes, a gentleman stopped. He drove me down to Auke lake. I’m not sure that was where he was going, but it was kind of him. He showed me his photos of a large King salmon he had caught fly-fishing - very impressive!

In the post-office, I asked for some used paper. I had just written “FERR” when I got a lift to the terminal. The gentleman was going to pick some logoonberries. Only one grows on each bush, so it takes some time to collect enought to make jam. Last year he made over 500lbs of jam!

I was in ample time for the ferry, and started to sift through the photographs. There was a sailors drill, so I went out to take photos of them lowering a life-raft. At intervals, there were interesting talks given by the Forest Interpreter. However, any time we spotted a whale or porpoises, everyone rushed to the side to look at them. Often, I couldn’t even see what we were looking at. There was one group by an island in the distance, but you could only see the blows.

We also were given a talk on bears. I listened to most of it, since any information about how to deal with bears can be useful. There wasn’t much sunlight, but when it came, I rushed round for some general boat scenes. I watched several movies - “Babe” and “Accident” The former shows how those who practice the ugliness of jeering and laughing at the “ridiculous”, suddenly, in an instant, change their jeers to cheers when the little pig rounds up the sheep. It is quite unheard of for people to change their beliefs so readily, but Hollywood wants us to believe it is possible. I won’t change my scepticism about human nature on viewing one film.

During the second movie, a call on the intercom alerted us to a whale. We all rushed out, just in time to see it pass by, very close. I was too tired to do much typing later on. By ten, the lights in the observation room were out, and most people had settled down to sleep. I tucked in, too.

The ferry terminal is several miles out of town, so I hitched in with a German guy going fishing. I couldn’t find my plastic covers and paper. I think I left them on the bus going into Skagway. I’m becoming more forgetful. It’s not expensive, just inconvenient.

The interpretation centre was already open. They were able to look after my rucksack for me, and supplied a map and some ideas for places to visit.

The Bald Eagle Foundation cost 3$US. They accepted a 5$ Canadian note, with 1$ US change. It was just a large room with stuffed animals. Still, the bears and moose were particuarly impressive, well, large really. I hung around for a presentation. The river doesn’t freeze, and the salmon run for seven months, making it a great place for eagles and bears to feed. The eagles come in their thousands in autumn and winter.

I wandered round the former fort, and its officers quarters. At the bank, I dithered about getting some cash, but decided against it. I have enough food to last until Sunday morning. Back at the interpretation centre, I retrieved my bag. There was some hot chocolate, but in the absence of hot water, I had to add hot coffee. I haven’t drunk coffee for a long time, and this chocolate and coffee mix was very strong. Even so, I was still sleepy. There were a number of bald eagles in the tops of the trees.

I hitched back to the terminal. It was open. There was a ferry going to Juneau, but I didn’t even ask if I could change. Maybe I should have done so. Instead, I typed the diaries for a while. Then, I slept outside again, even though the terminal was open. People in the terminal tended to talk too loudly. This is America, land of loud voices.

The bunk beds in the hostel are metal-framed, with many of the ribs bent. They squeak when I turn over. Since I’m the only person in the room, I took my bunk off the bed and lay on the floor, half-way through the night. I reckon that’s why Vera and I were so sleepy on the way up to Dawson.

I managed to do some diary scribbling in the morning, after my muesli. In town, I found a sports shop with some leggings - for just 25$ - half the normal price. That was just one day’s “allowances.”

I started walking towards Skagway, just holding out the sign “Please.” It worked - with a lift up to a garage on the Alaskan Highway. Then another short hop to the junction with the Carcross road. I bought some Marathons and a litre of water at the garage, then started walking again. A gentleman and his daughter gave me a lift to the middle of nowhere! They lived in the wilderness. His daughter is shortly going to Europe for a few weeks.

It wasn’t raining, fortunately. I walked on, calculating the time to walk the next twenty miles to Carcross. Several cars went by before a lady stopped. She always stops for hitchhikers, she tells me. usually Natives. She’s a tour guide, and also runs a shop. Today is a cruise ship day, so there are 8000 tourists for a town with a winter population of 800. We caught up on bear stories. Many folks have told me their bear experiences, but this was the worst. Several weeks back, a gentleman saw a bear on the highway, and rushed out to take a photograph. The bear charged, and despite the family’s efforts, ate the man right there in front of them!

We stopped only at the emerald lakes, where I took some snaps, and at the “Welcome to Alaska” sign, where I had to take a photo, because everyone takes a photo there. The forest on the mountain has trees that are almost 1000 years old, but are stunted - like bonsai. The light green carpet underneath is moss, and the trees are quite sparse. I took a few snaps through the windows.

I jumped out at the waterfall just before the American border. The lady couldn’t take me through the border, because she had been told off taking a Swede through once, who had drugs on him. The falls were OK. I sang “It’s a long way to Tipperary” to ward off the bears, as I walked down the road. Across the valley, the White Pass and Yukon steam trains trundled past, giving me something to point the lens at.

The customs man wanted to see my plane ticket - at the bottom of my bag. He let me bring in an apple, though. Further on in the drizzle, a bus stopped for me. All the other passengers were on a cruise. She asked me some questions. I handed out a card or two.< In town, I wandered round taking snaps, mostly of the enormous cruise ship parked at the end of the road, as it seemed. There were always people in the frame - too many to remove or wait for! My ferry didn’t leave until 1.45 a.m., so there was time to walk to the Gold Rush cemetary, and the waterfalls nearby. A young girl was calling her dog, but as soon as it saw me, it rushed away. I had to move away while she caught it to get past me! The falls were fine, but harder to photograph. I sang again, to frighten away the bears.

I was able to pay for my provisions by credit card, not having any American Dollars. I bought more bread, some salami, mini marathons, granola and apples. That should last until Sunday. It was heavy, so I hope I don’t have to carry it for long.

I bought my tickets - choosing to spend a day in Haines and taking the slow boat to Prince Rupert - to give the weather a chance! While waiting, I recharged my batteries and did some computing. On the boat, I found a place to sleep. The journey only took an hour.

When I got off, I decided to sleep outside the terminal, placing my food away from me in case of bears. I put an eye mask on. As I was drifting off, I felt a heavy paw on my shoulder. Bears, though, don’t talk. It was a crew member, thinking I might miss the boat.